
A 500-rupee note and the art of survival in Kashmir
At 7 AM, in the biting cold of Zawoora, a young student stood at the bus stop, shifting his weight from one foot to another. His face was tense—not just from the morning chill but from a problem that had unsettled him since the night before. In his pocket was a single 500-rupee note, and he needed smaller denominations to pay for the two buses that would take him to university.
The problem seemed trivial but carried real consequences. Bus conductors rarely accepted large bills, and in Kashmir, where digital transactions remain inconsistent, the availability of smaller notes can often dictate whether one reaches their destination on time.
With uncertainty weighing on him, he climbed onto the back of a load-carrier and reached his next stop. The first challenge awaited him: finding cha...