Bhat Yasir
In the picturesque valley of Kashmir, where the air is imbued with the spirit of syncretism, the Khanqah-e-Moula of Srinagar stands as an architectural and spiritual gem.
Constructed in 1395 by Sultan Sikander in homage to the revered Sufi saint Mir Ali Hamdan, this sacred sanctuary weaves together threads of spirituality and history that have left an indelible mark on the cultural fabric of the Kashmir valley.
Mir Sayyid Ali Hamadani, fondly known as Shah-i-Hamadan, found solace in Kashmir, and his stay played a pivotal role in shaping the early foundations of Islam in the valley.
The Khanqah, primarily a mosque, is a living testament to the syncretic ethos of Kashmir, with its wood architecture drawing inspiration not only from Islamic styles but also from the rich tapestry of Buddhist and Hindu influences.
While the first Khanqah, founded by Sultan Sadruddin, honored Shaikh Sharafuddin Suharwardi, it was the Khanqah-e-Moulla dedicated to Mir Sayyid Ali Hamadani that garnered unparalleled devotion.
Prof. Shamsuddin Ahmed poignantly remarks on the divine act that spared Shah-i-Hamadan from being buried in Kashmir, preventing his deification. The Khanqah stands not just as a physical structure but as a sacred space embedded in the hearts and minds of devotees.
The Khanqah’s popularity is deeply rooted in the spiritual legacy of Shah-i-Hamadan, and the rituals practiced within its walls are centered around the sanctified space where the revered Sufi saint once resided. The devotion of the people towards this site is palpable, transcending generations and maintaining its prominence during the formative stages of Islam in Kashmir.
The Khanqah-e-Moulla underwent various transformations throughout its history, each layer reflecting the resilience and faith of its followers. Initially established besides a former Hindu temple, it evolved over the centuries. Mir Muhammad Hamadani, with his royal lineage, played a significant role in its reconstruction, adding a new architectural form that continues to stand as a testament to time.
The structure faced numerous challenges, from fires that scorched its walls to political upheavals that threatened its existence. Yet, the Khanqah endured, thanks to the contributions of rulers like Sultan Sikandar and the Mughal emperor Aurangzeb, who recognized its spiritual importance. Even during periods of changing governance, such as the Sikh and British eras, the Khanqah maintained its sanctity.
The Debate
The Khanqah is revered by people of all faiths in the region. For several years, Sikhs and Hindus have equally been participating in the rituals at the Khanqah along with the Muslims. Muslims have been performing prayers peacefully at the Khanqah and Hindus at a little distance away from the sacred building.
Toward the River Jhelum, an intriguing site unveils itself — a wall adorned with Sindoor, a vibrant vermilion red or orange-red cosmetic powder traditionally worn by married women along the parting of their hair. A curious phenomenon occurs as water oozes from a specific spot.
According to the beliefs of Kashmiri Hindus, this unique occurrence is dedicated to the revered goddess Kali, adding a mystical and sacred dimension to the site. This site, marked by Sindoor and the inexplicable flow of water, holds spiritual significance for the local community.
Debates persist about the origins of the Khanqah, with some claiming it was initially a Hindu temple.
One of the first arguments in this case was made in “Eminent Personalities of Kashmir,” edited by Kashmiri Hindu Krishan Lal Kalla. The book suggests that the site was initially a Kali temple.
His narrative unfolds with the return of Hazrat Ameer Kabir from Makkah. It is recounted that he entered the temple and devoutly offered his prayers. Intriguingly, upon his departure, it was discovered that he had left distinctive footprints on the stone plate where he had bowed in reverence to God. In a swift turn of events, this sacred temple underwent a transformation, being promptly converted into the revered Khanqah-e-Moula.
However, historians question these claims, emphasizing the absence of concrete evidence supporting the existence of a temple at the site. Skepticism surrounds these claims, with some viewing them as a revisionist attempt to reshape historical narratives.
Traditional Kashmiri Hindu historians, including Kalhana, Jonaraja, and Shuk Bhatt, notably make no mention of the existence of any temple at the location of the Khanqah-e-Moulla. This absence of acknowledgment raises doubts about the validity of the narrative.
A counterargument emerges, emphasizing the coexistence of a Hindu religious site adjacent to the Khanqah. Historians write that these two sites have perpetually existed side by side, suggesting a testament to the region’s long-standing communal tolerance. Kashmiri Hindus, have historically held the Khanqah in high reverence.
Noteworthy scholars, such as archaeologist RC Kak in “Ancient Monuments of Kashmir” and historian PNK Bamzai in “Culture and Political History of Kashmir,” make no explicit mention of the possibility of a pre-existing temple at the current site of the Khanqah-e-Moula.
Saleem Beg, a member of INTACH (Indian National Trust for Art and Cultural Heritage), sheds light on the coexistence of the holy place of Hindus and the Khanqah. He clarifies that, indeed, there was a Kali Mandir in close proximity to the Khanqah-e-Moula. “The temple remained active and open for prayers until the migration of Pandits from the region.”
If the site was a grand Hindu temple, why was it that a small sufa/hujra was constructed and not a mosque of equal or comparable grandeur, he asks.
About the still existing Kali shrine towards the river at the shrine, he says, there are many such instances where sacred spaces of the two religions have co existed in peace, at this Khanqah and many others in the valley.
The historian further argues, “Yes there have been instances and attempts by respective keepers for expansion and spread which has never been allowed to supersede any of the two spaces. Those of us who have lived and been brought up in that cultural milieu, know of locations where mosques and temples have been survived in close proximity of each other, they have been sharing the same ghat on the river front, the same lane leading to both the sacred places.”
The Khanqah faced a critical juncture during the 18th century. Allegations arose that the Khanqah was constructed on the ruins of a temple, leading the rulers to contemplate its destruction. To restore the property to Hindus, the rulers reportedly positioned heavy guns around the Khanqah. However, influential Pandit Birbal Dhar Kak, approached by Muslims armed with revenue papers indicating the land’s legitimate purchase by the Muslim community during its construction, intervened to prevent any adverse action.
Amidst these historical debates, the Khanqah-e-Moula continues to stand tall as a beacon of religious harmony. Devotees gather within its walls to offer prayers and seek spiritual enlightenment, emphasizing its enduring significance in the intricate tapestry of Kashmir’s rich history.
As the echoes of prayers reverberate through its halls, the Khanqah-e-Moula remains a living testament to the enduring spirit of faith and coexistence in the valley of Kashmir.